F1 ROC: Race Of Champions Walkthrought
We’re kicking off a season in F1 ROC: Race of Champions — that classic Super Nintendo racer many also remember as Exhaust Heat. This isn’t “floor it and pray,” it’s a calm, methodical run: qualifying as pure time attack, no-drama opening laps, the right upgrades at the right time, and a smart pit stop. I’ll guide you step by step, track by track, so the season plays into your hands.
Season opener: qualifying and core upgrades
First order of business — qualifying. In this game, your grid spot is half the battle. For the early rounds, bolt on soft tires and set the gearbox to short ratios — punchy acceleration beats outright top speed. On clean laps, brake a touch earlier than your visual markers — F1 ROC rewards a tidy turn-in with zero scrub. Spend prize money straight into engine and brakes: the engine upgrade gives consistent pull off corners, while better brakes cut the risk of overshooting 90-degree bends. Keep the wings at a middle setting — until the mega straights arrive, downforce pays dividends.
Early rounds: tight streets and twitchy sequences
A typical street course with close walls is a discipline check. Feed in throttle late and don’t roast the rears on exit: in this game, scraping a wall costs time and can force an unscheduled pit. Before a chicane, lift early, roll it in, and ease out at half-throttle until the car is straight. Don’t get greedy here: soft compound and one pit stop if the distance is long, with fuel to about half a tank — a lighter car in the closing laps gives you a comeback window.
Next up are tracks with “schoolbook” sweepers. You can stretch the gearbox one click — a compromise between launch and Vmax. If the weather’s moody, go full wets only when the whole lap is genuinely soaked. In semi-dry conditions, stick to softs and watch tire temps. Don’t chase a hero lap in the mixed stuff — bank clean, steady sectors instead.
Mid-season: long straights and sneaky chicanes
When you hit high-speed autodromes with runway-long straights, switch to a “low wing — long box” philosophy. Top speed is your friend. Lengthen the ratios for the straights but keep enough punch to fire from 3rd to 4th without bogging. Through chicanes, carve the arc: short, early brake — micro pause — rotate the chassis — and a smooth exit. If you’re kissing the limiter at the end of a straight, go one step longer; otherwise you’re handing away seconds.
On sections packed with S-bends, run medium downforce and a slightly short gearbox. The trick is rhythm: don’t brake for every “S”; make one confident lift before the first, then float the car with a clean transfer. There’s no formal penalty, but losing momentum here hurts more than in hairpins. It’s smart to grab fresh rubber when fuel dips to a third of the tank: a lighter car flows through the S’s cleaner. Pit stops in F1 ROC are quick, but still plan your window — rejoin clear of traffic or you’ll have your rhythm shredded.
Key venues: Monaco, Monza, Silverstone, Suzuka
Monaco — no heroics. Medium wing, short box, softs. Don’t chase silly top speed in the tunnel: one tiny mistake equals a kiss on the wall. Launch clean, hold your line, and pass only on exits from slow corners when a rival runs wide. One pit stop, right on schedule — don’t stretch the tires into the “red.”
Monza — the opposite extreme. Minimum wing, the longest gearbox your engine combo can pull. The big thing is consistent braking into the first chicane. Use the second banner as a reference, but start braking earlier than your gut says. Pro tip: momentarily ease off the brake as you switch direction so the nose doesn’t straighten, then squeeze again once the car settles. Pit off tire life; fuel with confidence — consumption here is steady.
Silverstone — fast-flowing arcs. Set the wing to “medium+,” gearbox one step shorter than on pure speedways. The key is not snapping the car in fast left-handers: slight lift on entry, even throttle on exit, no stabs. In qualifying it’s pure time attack: empty track, bring tires up to temp, one flyer and box — don’t waste attempts.
Suzuka — a rhythm masterclass. Opening Esses: one brake for the first, then pendulum the chassis with small steering angles. Before Degner, don’t cut — the inside curb is vicious and will pitch you. Run “medium+” downforce and a gearbox one click longer than feels obvious — stability beats a punchy burst.
Run-in to the finale: tire wear and a cool head
Late in the season, when the stakes climb, tire wear becomes the boss. Plan your stop by pace, not lap count: as soon as your middle sector sags by three to four tenths, box — fresh tires pay back within two laps. If rain hits, don’t rush to full wets; watch how the surface gleams on the straights — if water streaks aren’t continuous, “inters logic” in this game beats bolting on full wets.
Rivals get feistier on the brakes toward the end. Defend with one move, don’t park the apex, and leave yourself an exit. On long straights, stay in clean air: even in F1 ROC, dirty air costs downforce through extended sweepers — don’t glue yourself to a rear wing before a fast corner; open the entry a touch wider and attack on exit. Fighting for the title? Skip street-section heroics — bank the points.
Money and upgrades: what to buy and when
The economy is simple: engine and brakes first, then tires and wings; gearbox as needed. After a couple of good Grands Prix, refresh aero — on medium tracks it’s worth a second over a run. As high-speed rounds approach, invest in transmission so you can stretch ratios and stop smacking the limiter on the straights. See more on upgrade mechanics at /gameplay/ — the shorthand order is: engine — brakes — tires — wings — gearbox. Don’t waste cash on contact penalties — just avoid bumps; repairs in the pits burn time with no return.
And hey, don’t forget separate setups for qualifying and the race. For hot laps — softs, a touch more downforce, short gearing. For the race — a compromise: medium downforce, soft or medium rubber depending on stint length, and gears one click longer. That way you keep the launch and the long-run pace — exactly what you need for F1 ROC, a.k.a. Exhaust Heat, to turn into your season.